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| The incredible Philipp PLein Show FW 2020?21 |
ENGLISH EDITION - If we
could for a moment not think about the seriousness of the moment that
has swooped down on the fashion just celebrated in Milan, we could
say that the Fashion Virus has continued to fill and infect the
Milanese events despite everything. It's
true that the Milanese fashion week with 30% fewer buyers during the shows, were a demonstration of this, but despite all the
emblematic and significant events of this Fw 2020 Fashion Week, they
all took place and the city that gives the pulse to a world in
continuous evolution, determining its future lines, is still there
and is marking world’s future directions.
1 - Those
who see fashion as an instrument of beauty, like a lipstick or
eyeliner, ask for a fashion of beauty becoming a tool to "keep
in the bag" to appear in all one’s femininity. Elisabetta
Franchi in this is now the new “Chanel” who knows how to
interpret Italian femininity in all its possible forms.
2 - Those who knew fashion after the birth of videogames in the 90s, and grew up with shooter strokes and visual excesses, they live fashion as a big bright spot to be aimed on themselves not to go unnoticed. A new generation made up of youngs and old people feeling young inside, who enjoyed the incredible Plein show, in which military jets, helicopters, speedy boats and rap music, told of the will and desire to dream and have no limits.
3 - Those who live fashion as a product of modern, metropolitan and urban life, made of dreams and ideals that lead back to the desire for goods to be used for their daily lives, enjoyed the Moncler event, in which the celebratory show, albeit in a sophisticated way, retains the ability to tell the fashion as a desire to "participate in the festival of fashion", without being taken too seriously, mixing in it the artistic language and creativity applied to its story.
4 - Finally, there is the fashion of those who are part of the economic media circuit, celebrating fashion as a personal and private matter, in which visibility derives not from the great ability to aggregate large masses around itself, but rather the contrary, that made up of "elites" and large advertising investments necessary to gain visibility and a good opinion of the conventional media.
They realize great collaborations and great communicative projects with conventional media, to communicate with the "world elite" that lives fashion as "Status" declined in its highest forms of excellence, and that wants, despite everything, to have a sort of cultural consensus with respect to the choices it makes, in which creatives and artists can justify their value. (Gucci, Prada, etc.)
In short, a great Fw2020/21 panorama offered by Milan to the world, a great range of proposals that, if observed from afar, offers a cross-section of the Italian fashion system that is now well defined and in constant evolution. Perhaps the most emblematic synthesis of this concept today can be found in Via Sant'Andrea 9, where Armani opened its new boutique in the place that was the origin of its Brand Story
I am happy to have been part of a moment in life when the greatness of a King like Giorgio Armani showed itself in all its natural beauty, that he shared with those who love him. Milan is Armani, it is the spirit of an idea in which style and class become superlative; a context in which creativity is born and develops in the cradle of beauty, like anywhere else in the world. When all this is over, I will remember the smile and the embrace of a man who still sees in beauty a road to live and tell.
Audrey
Audrey World News
Seen
from afar, the Milan Fashion Week Fw 2020, showed 4 directions of
media communication: a "Classic" one, made by the
conventional fashion show (Elisabetta Franchi, Armani etc.); a
"spectacular" one, that represents the desire to dare, to
be noticed, telling oneself like if one were in a latest generation
videogame (Philipp Plein); a "celebratory" one, where the
event must tell about the inspirations of the Brand in a huge theme
park (Moncler); a "self-celebrative" one, made by brands
that live of the “in-crowd” and of their "economic strength"
around which the media and creatives are huddled, looking for their
gratification.
There
are 4 ways of communicating, all self-sufficient, closely linked to
the needs of their target audience which in turn correspond to 4 ways
of interpreting and using fashion on one's own body.
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| The incredible Philipp PLein Show FW 2020?21 |
2 - Those who knew fashion after the birth of videogames in the 90s, and grew up with shooter strokes and visual excesses, they live fashion as a big bright spot to be aimed on themselves not to go unnoticed. A new generation made up of youngs and old people feeling young inside, who enjoyed the incredible Plein show, in which military jets, helicopters, speedy boats and rap music, told of the will and desire to dream and have no limits.
3 - Those who live fashion as a product of modern, metropolitan and urban life, made of dreams and ideals that lead back to the desire for goods to be used for their daily lives, enjoyed the Moncler event, in which the celebratory show, albeit in a sophisticated way, retains the ability to tell the fashion as a desire to "participate in the festival of fashion", without being taken too seriously, mixing in it the artistic language and creativity applied to its story.
4 - Finally, there is the fashion of those who are part of the economic media circuit, celebrating fashion as a personal and private matter, in which visibility derives not from the great ability to aggregate large masses around itself, but rather the contrary, that made up of "elites" and large advertising investments necessary to gain visibility and a good opinion of the conventional media.
They realize great collaborations and great communicative projects with conventional media, to communicate with the "world elite" that lives fashion as "Status" declined in its highest forms of excellence, and that wants, despite everything, to have a sort of cultural consensus with respect to the choices it makes, in which creatives and artists can justify their value. (Gucci, Prada, etc.)
 |
| The incredible Philipp PLein Show FW 2020?21 |
In short, a great Fw2020/21 panorama offered by Milan to the world, a great range of proposals that, if observed from afar, offers a cross-section of the Italian fashion system that is now well defined and in constant evolution. Perhaps the most emblematic synthesis of this concept today can be found in Via Sant'Andrea 9, where Armani opened its new boutique in the place that was the origin of its Brand Story
Giorgio
Armani met his admirers in a completely renovated space, where the
pieces of his collection represent the excellence of "Contemporary
Italian Luxury" declined in its structural parts. The space
itself, in addition to the care of the collections, allowed me to
observe the care of the space where the wonderful silk walls adorn
the exclusive context of his creations. Among
the many guests the film director Muccino and his beautiful family,
actors and actresses, celebrities and many friends of the designer
with whom we continued the party in the Armani Privè, where GiannaNannini gave an unforgettable live show.
I am happy to have been part of a moment in life when the greatness of a King like Giorgio Armani showed itself in all its natural beauty, that he shared with those who love him. Milan is Armani, it is the spirit of an idea in which style and class become superlative; a context in which creativity is born and develops in the cradle of beauty, like anywhere else in the world. When all this is over, I will remember the smile and the embrace of a man who still sees in beauty a road to live and tell.
Audrey
ITALIAN EDITION - Se per un attimo riuscissimo a non pensare alla serietà del momento che è piombata sulla moda appena celebrata a Milano, potremmo dire che il Virus della Moda ha continuato a riempire e a contagiare gli eventi Milanesi nonostante tutto. E’ vero, le sfilate milanesi con un 30% di buyers in meno durante gli show, ne sono stati una dimostrazione, ma nonostante tutto gli eventi emblematici e significativi di questa Fashion Show Fw 2020, ci sono stati tutti e, una città che dà il battito a un mondo in continua evoluzione, determinandone le linee future, c’è ancora e ne sta segnando le strade future.
Vista da lontano, la Milano fashion Week Fw 2020, ha mostrato 4 direzioni di comunicazione mediatica: una “Classica” realizzata con la sfilata convenzionale ( Elisabetta Franchi, Armani etc..), una “spettacolare” che rappresenta la voglia di osare di farsi notare raccontandosi come in un videogame di ultima generazione ( Philipp Plein), una “celebrativa” dove l’evento deve raccontare in un immenso parco tematico le ispirazioni del Brand ( Moncler), una “autocelebrativa” fatta da brand che vivono dei “salotti buoni” e della loro “forza economica” intorno a cui si accalcano media e creativi, cercandone la propria gratificazione.
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| Elisabetta Franchi on catwalk with Filippo Zagagnoni that support Elisabetta on creation of the collecttions |
Chi la moda invece l’ha conosciuta dopo la nascita dei videogames degli anni 90, ed è cresciuta a botte di sparatutto e di eccessi visivi, vive la moda come un grande spot luminoso da puntare su di se per non passare inosservato. Una nuova generazione fatta di giovani e meno giovani che si sente giovane dentro, e che ha goduto dell’incredibile show Plein, in cui jet militari, elicotteri e speedy boat, e musica rap, hanno raccontato della voglia e del desiderio di sognare e di non avere limiti.
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| Elisabtte Franchi show fw 2020/21 |
Per finire, la moda di chi fa parte del circuito mediatico economico, che celebra la moda come un fatto personale e privato, in cui la visibilità deriva non dalla grande capacità di aggregare grandi masse intorno a sé, ma piuttosto al contrario quella fatta di “elites” e di grandi investimenti pubblicitari necessari ad acquisire visibilità e una buona opinione dei media convenzionali. Essi realizzano grandi collaborazioni e grandi progetti comunicativi con i media convenzionali, per comunicare con quella “élite mondiale” che vive la moda come “Status” declinandolo nelle sue massime forme di eccellenza, e che vuole, nonostante tutto avere una sorta di consenso culturale rispetto alle scelte che fa, in cui creativi e artisti, possano giustificare il loro valore. (Gucci, Prada, etc.).
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| Elisabtte Franchi show fw 2020/21 |
Insomma una grande panorama Fw2020 offerto da Milano al mondo, una grande offerta di proposte che, se osservata da lontano, offre uno spaccato del sistema moda italiano ormai ben delineato e allo stesso modo in continua evoluzione.
La sintesi più emblematica di questo concetto forse oggi la si trova in via Sant’Andrea 9, dove Armani ha inaugurato la sua nuova boutique nella sede che fu l’origine della sua Brand Story.
Giorgio Armani ha incontrato i suoi estimatori all’interno di uno spazio completamente rinnovato, in cui i pezzi della sua collezione rappresentano l’eccellenza del “Lusso Italiano contemporaneo” declinato fin nelle sue parti strutturali. Lo spazio stesso oltre alla cura delle collezioni mi ha permesso di osservare la cura dello spazio dove le meravigliose pareti di seta adornano il contesto esclusivo delle sue creazioni.
Audrey
Fra i tanti invitati il regista Muccino e la sua bella famiglia, attori e attrici, celebrative e tanti amici dello stilista con cui abbiamo proseguito la festa nell’Armani Privè dove, Gianna Nannini, ha regalato uno spettacolo dal vivo indimenticabile. Sono felice di essere stata partecipe di un momento di vita in cui, la grandezza di un Re come Giorgio Armani, si è mostrata in tutta la sua naturale bellezza che condivide con chi lo ama. Milano è Armani, è lo spirito di un’idea in cui lo stile e la classe diventano superlativi; un contesto in cui la creatività nasce e si sviluppa nella culla della bellezza, come in nessun altro luogo al Mondo. Quando tutto questo sarà passato mi resterà il ricordo del sorriso e dell’abbraccio di uomo che nella bellezza vede ancora oggi una strada da vivere e raccontare.
Audrey
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| The incredible Philipp PLein Show FW 2020?21 |
